Wakatake No Sho

We booked 2 tatami rooms at this ryokan thinking that it was in Nikko and discovered the day we left Tokyo that we'd actually be 40 minutes away. When we arrived, we realized that we were out in the middle of nowhere, but the ryokan was a very short walk from the small train station. When we walked into the driveway, we were greeted by a woman who grabbed out bags and led us into an elegant but simple lobby. I knew at that point that we would not be disappointed. There were nice sofa-chairs and we were brought tea and we did the check in there while relaxing. We then were led to our rooms and found them to be large, immaculate, wonderfully appointed, with huge windows overlooking a river. We were given yukatas to wear which we wore to the onsen before dinner and then to the most incredible meal. We spent 1.5 hours at the dining table in a private room and had dish after dish of perfectly prepared Japanese foods including sashimi, vegetables, etc. We also enjoyed a bottle of sake. After dinner we returned to the room to find our futons out for the night. Great sleep in a quiet and dark room. Another amazing meal, breakfast, awaited us in the morning, again in our private room. That day we enjoyed walking along trails beside the river, taking a gondola ride up to see darling monkeys playing, and relaxing with more time in the hot springs at the ryokan. Another superb dinner with totally new courses and another splendid breakfast. It was an experience that I'll never forget--so Japanese and so totally different from the time we spent in Tokyo. The price was more than fair, especially given the quality of the meals and the service (which was generous and gracious). Thanks to all the staff for giving us an amazing experience.