La Capannina

I remember a time when donkey carts took travelers up to Anacapri from beneath, when the island was more lovely and less smart. Now it is yet perfectly manicured, visually compelling where allowed to breathe a bit and overall less soulful. I remember a time when prices when 1/3 what they were fixed for inflation, when people watching involved studying the locals at work, not the couture labels of bon ton society. Not two days later, give or take about three decades, I've returned to the region and San Marco has largely retained its essence, while other nearby setting have sold theirs. Here was the place of six weeks over two summers I couldn't bear to leave, Capri the place of six hours over the same period, I couldn't wait to depart. To each his own! San Marco La Campannina (weekly self cater apartment) May 2016 : Now twenty seven and twenty eight years following two lengthy summers involving home and auto exchange with a Napoli dottore and his wife, my wife and I find ourselves in La Campannina, unable to relocate that first former house, if it still exists or hasn’t transitioned to a dual level with extensive modifications.That’s not so important, as the past is changed as well in any case, but the heart of all around remains intact. Our second floor (first floor in Europe as designated) apartment is very homey and of rustic seaside character with a lovely little balcony overlooking a delightful large enclosed garden below. The proprietress and her two sons run the place together, one the chef. Because I like to cook some and factoring our drive itineraries, we didn’t eat in the restaurant below. We perhaps will try it tonight on our last evening for something light. Our lunches on the road for the week were the main meal often enough, but always somewhere other than nearby. The oven, stove, shower and fridge work well, beds are comfortable and the sliding screen door allows for fresh air when ac or heat is not in use. The balcony sea and mountain views are hypnotic and serene. Some prefer top drawer accommodations (we’ve had our share) everywhere and at all times. For us, a smaller turn here and there is like a lighter fresh meal after a few multi course extravaganzas. In its simplicity everything was delightful. Most especially I enjoyed the garden daily in late afternoon and early evening with many different seating arrangements, some shaded, and didn’t mind having to engage the internet exclusively from this vantage point. Sometimes I’d bring a Peroni and some pistachios, or a bit of wine and cheese while relaxing, reading or writing as my wife took a quiet nap or did the same upstairs. Mama and son were very helpful and so kind to us throughout the week. I especially found him thoughtful and her captivating, reminding me, when a young child, so much of my grandma Apollonia , each with especially beautiful smiles and warm heart. If you’re looking for a tranquil base, don’t mind a rooster now and again (can be shut out by closing the patio completely), great vistas of mountaintop Castellabate and the sea from both from the room and private balcony. We most heartily recommend the tranquil paese feel of La Campannina and will miss our time and the thoroughly winsome people here.