Shogetsu

Gero Onsen is considered to be one of the three most famous Onsen towns in Japan (Kusatsu Onsen and Arima Onsen being the others.) While that alone might not convince foreign travellers to visit Gero, Shogetsu Ryokan just might. Gero isn't the most accessible place (rental car is best), and for a first time traveller to Japan, it's probably not worth the hassle of getting there when options like Hakone, Izu or Kinosaki are available. However, for the Japan conoisseur (and repeat visitor) that's looking to go slightly off the beaten path, and get an authentic luxury Onsen ryokan experience at the same time, Shogetsu will certainly fit the bill. In fact, we were shocked at just how much it exceeded our expectations; we were looking for the best that Gero had to offer, which we thought wasn't saying much. Instead, we were treated to a property that was traditional yet stylish, and amenity-laden, especially for a small boutique ryokan. Shogetsu is perched atop a hill overlooking the main Gero town, which is good or bad, depending on your point of view. It's a bit of a walk to get to the main town (which you should definitely check out) and some of the prominent tourist attractions nearby. On the other hand, you're treated to spectacular views, including from the rooms. Inside, it's a mixture of traditional and modern Japanese design done in a very artistic way. For instance, in the reception area there's a tiny indoor mini rock garden with a stone lantern that's lit up in a way that gives the entire area an aura of mystery. Then, about 30 meters away, towards the window overlooking Gero town is another (outdoor) stone garden on the balcony, which serves as a waiting area. It's all very glorious, and gives a hint at what's time come when staying at Shogetsu. Our room was more traditional, but very comforting and functional. We chose a Japanese-style room on the fourth floor which featured an open-air Onsen bath on the balcony. It was 68m² in size - not massive, but more than enough space for two guests to spread out and enjoy their time. The large balcony (again, with the commanding views of Gero) with the floor-to-ceiling veranda helps to add to the sense of spaciousness. Meals are served in private rooms in a particular section of Shogetsu, which isn't our preference (we prefer to have meals served in the room we're actually staying in.) However, it was far less of an issue at Shogetsu. For starters, the dining area were all separate and in enclosed private rooms. Furthermore, the entire area was super stylish - a mini stream with Koi fish swimming around, stone lanterns all over the place, bonsai trees adorning the walkway, and really nice mood lighting which was really comforting... it gives a positive pretense to the amazing dining experience that lies ahead. And the meals were absolutely divine - shocking, really. We've had amazing meals at some of the top ryokans in the country, and Shogetsu ranks with the very best of them. Everything was fresh, uniquely prepared and creatively arranged in a way that made each course a memorable one. Everyone knows that the area is famous for Hida Beef (which we paid extra for to have both the beef Shabu Shabu hot pot as well as grilled Steak), but the mountain vegetables and seafood (including of the local fresh water variety) were also done very nicely. A clear soup with won tons that featured clams and cabbage was amazing, as was the Sea Urchin and Caviar on top of Japanese potatoes. Yes, it sounds weird, but trust me when I say that we savored every bite. And, we were treated to a third Hida Beef dish, which was arguably as good - if not better - than the steak and hot pot... a Beef Tongue stew that included an Eagle Fern Tempura. Even if every single offering does not tickle your palate, you'll walk away amazed at the creativity of Japanese Washoku kaiseki cuisine. It's really indicative of the Japanese food ethos - continually strive for improvement, and there are no rules when it comes to food (which runs counter to the perception that the Japanese culture is very homogenous and rules-based.... not when it comes to food!) Service was all smiles and professional. While they don't assign a Nakai-san (i.e. butler) like some other luxury ryokans, everything is managed with the utmost in efficiency, if slightly less personal. And since we only stayed for one night and knew exactly what we planned on doing in the area, we did not need any concierge-type of assistance. In any case, I'm certain that the staff there would have bent over backwards should we have made inquiries or requests of any kind. It's really an upscale operation at Shogetsu. If you're on the way to (or way back from) Takayama, want to stay somewhere nice and relaxing, eat great food, and soak in some of the best Onsen spring water that Japan has to offer, Shogetsu would be a wonderful choice.