Atagawa Onsen Takami Hotel

It was a 4 because: 1) Service was impeccable in typical Japanese fashion - unfailingly polite, welcoming from start to end. The front counter person asked us where we were headed after and brought out an area map, pointing us specifically to the next location. 2) Food - we took a half-board meal plan. Dinner was sumptuous, we were stuffed with the local delights. Highlights included one whole braised Alfonsino fish (a local specialty catch), wonderful miso soup with clam, seafood nabe, grilled scallop with butter and lemon juice. Capped with dessert of pudding and local orange jelly. Breakfast wowed again. Horse mackerel (aji) on the grill, a fantastic soup and onsen egg (and much more). 3) Cleanliness - room was very clean and tidy. 4) Outdoor onsen was lovely - water wasn't overly hot 5) Stunning views of Sagami Bay and the mountain from the room. Breathtaking to wake up to this sight. Why it didn't get a 5: 1) Shower tub and indoor onsen - they looked grimy and blackish on the sides. I didn't use either because of the off-putting appearance, but honestly, I doubt it was because it was dirty. I think rather, it was probably clean but so old they couldn't remove the black appearance despite scrubbing 2) Musty smell throughout the establishment, particularly in the in-room shower and onsen changing areas. It was probably due to age, but it was a minus in my books All in all, taking into account the price paid, good value for money. But there are cleaner/newer ryokans around, just at a slightly increased price point