Fuka

I’ll start by saying that overall I enjoyed my stay at Hanare Fuka.Having been to literally dozens of onsens (and ryokans) in Japan, this ranks pretty high, in my book. If you’re looking for a nice place that is a bit off the beaten path, then this is a great choice. While it is in Kyoto Prefecture, it is in the far North, about 2 hours from Kyoto Main Station. Make no mistake, this is not on any western tourist list, and it’s VERY dome-dome (domestically oriented) place. You’ll need some decent Japanese skills, or be with someone who has, as no one there has even the most basic of English language skills. Like most onsen hotels, Hanare Fuka is quite large. There’s even a game area and a room with a children’s play area and a ping-pong table. Although the hotel is large, you never have the feeling that it’s crowded. You’re meet by a robot who (in Japanese), will actually talk to you. My Japanese is pretty good, although I do have an ‘accent’, but he seemed to understand me most of the time, which really amazed me. When we first arrived I was so fascinated over him that I initially spent a lot of time talking to him, and my wife had to finally drag me away (as she apologized to the robot, lol). The staff at the hotel is very nice, and welcoming, although they will strictly adhere to not letting you check in earlier than the ridiculously late check-in time of 4 PM, even if your room is available (when in Japan, get accustomed to people not actually ‘thinking’, but instead are very good at following procedures). If you’re thinking about going to an onsen place, you’re not going there to party or to go ‘buck-wild’ (this isn’t Bali or Phuket!). You’re going with the purpose of soaking in a hot mineral bath and to take advantage of its reputed healing/rejuvenating properties. You’re there for the relaxation and peace and quiet which goes with the onsen environment. Onsen places, in general, are good when you can dedicate some time to really do nothing, as typically, they are in areas where there’s not really much to do other than relax. When booking, you’ll have a choice between a regular room, where you’ll use the public onsen, or a room with a private onsen in it. Both types come in either a ‘Japanese room’ (you’re sleeping on the floor on tatami mats), or a kind of hybrid, which is a Japanese style front room, with a bedroom with regular beds. Having lived in Japan in the past for several years, and having slept on the floor enough in my life while there, we opted for regular Western beds in a “Japanese style’ room (which is FAR more comfortable than sleeping on the floor, trust me on this one). We also got this room with a private onsen, which is our usual practice. If you’re new to Japan, and interested in going through the process/steps of the public onsen, then by all means save some money and get just a regular room and use the public bath. If you’ve ‘been there, done that’ in regards to using public onsens, and really just want to focus on soaking and want the luxury of doing so anytime, then you should get a room with a private onsen. It’s so much more convenient. You’ve already dropped a ton of money at this point anyway, so go ahead and just do it. The in-room onsen itself was a beautiful stone one (my favorite kind), and it was just great. Take a look at the picture, and I’m sure you’ll agree that it’s pretty darned nice, indeed. In regards to the room in general, I’m a native New Yorker, and don’t impress very easily, but I will say that I loved our room, and think it was beautifully done (for a Japanese room). I really loved it. The rich wood and nice accents left no mistake that this wasn’t your everyday onsen place, but rather on the more upscale side. We had a balcony with a nice view of the area. There really isn’t anything to look at, but it was nice to have had it anyway. If I have to fault anything about the room, it would be that we had two beds instead of just one large bed, but at least we could both fit into one of the twins, so that was still fine. A first for me was having a massage chair in my room. It was a full on, high-end model, which had many different options. Both wifey and I went to town on it. Basically I spent a lot of time going from the onsen to the massage chair and then back to the onsen. It was amazing, and I loved every minute of it! The only downside to the in-room onsen thing at this hotel is that they shut it down at some point during the night. Supposedly, it was because some Japanese customers complained about the running water noise during the night, which makes no sense at all. I mean, what do you expect when you have the onsen IN your room? Wifey thinks the real reason is that they’re just being cheap and want to save money, and they’re just using that as an excuse. If you get the room package with dinner, then you made the right choice. Firstly, the restaurant is totally cool. Classic Japanese styling throughout, and it is indeed very elegant and just wonderful to see. The service is extremely attentive, and you’ll have your every need met while there. The dinner was kaiseiki style, with many small dishes focusing on regional specialties. Of course everything was beautifully presented. As is the case with kaiseiki dinners, they are rather deceptive. At the beginning you’ll think that you’ll go away hungry (after your first course or two), and think that too much of the focus is just on presentation, rather than substance (which is actually quite true in many instances in regular Japanese life), but in this case it just keeps coming and coming, with every dish more delicious than the last. Trust me when I tell you, that you’ll leave very satisfied. I can’t detail all the dishes we had, but I hope the attached pics can convey something about the experience. I can say that the food was very, very good. As is the case when traveling to Japan, you need to keep an open mind about the food. You’re not always going to like everything, but do give everything a try. You’ve come too far to be picky or finicky. Enjoy yourself! Breakfast is also taken in the restaurant, and you have your choice of Japanese or American (western). I went with the American breakie, and it was delicious. Take a look at the pics, and you’ll see how good everything looked. The portions were quite small, but it was enough. Of special note was the rice bread. Amazingly good, and I couldn’t get enough of it. In closing I really like Hanare Fuka. I love the location, which is far from the hordes in central Kyoto. I really enjoyed the great food taken is such an elegant restaurant, and of course soaking in the in-room onsen. The only reasons that kept me from giving it five stars are: 1. Ridiculously late check in (4PM) and check-out (10 AM). Only eighteen hours in the room? Come-on, now. 2. Early onsen shut downs. If you’re paying for a private onsen, then you should have it available during your stay, regardless of the hour. You’re paying for the access, so give it up. Onsen hotels can be very expensive. Whether or not they are worth it depends on your interest in soaking in hot springs. Long ago when I first tried it, I thought they were unbearably hot and uncomfortable, and said to myself, ‘this is NOT enjoyable at all’. But, I kept giving them a try, and in time have gotten to love and appreciate them. I guess it’s an acquired thing (or maybe I was just being wimpy, lol).So, I'm saying that if you really enjoy them, then it's worth it. In general, I do judge them to be a much better value than a regular ryokan (meaning just a regular Japanese room with a regular bath or access to a regular public bath). At an onsen hotel you are getting more for your money, (although you could argue that they don’t have the ‘charm’ of a standard J-inn). In my opinion though, if you are looking for a nice onsen hotel that is off the beaten path, and you don’t mind the late check in, or having to rush out of your room in the morning immediately after breakfast, then this is a good choice. I truly believe that overall you will enjoy your experience at Hanare Fuka. If you have any questions about this place, (or Japan in general), by all means, please ask. Talking about traveling is always fun! Hope this review helps. Cheers